Free Shipping on Orders over $75 to the Contiguous US
Free Shipping on Orders over $75 to the Contiguous US
February 27, 2026 9 min read 0 Comments

Dahlias are one of America’s favorite specialty cut flowers, and flower farmers know it. According to the Royal Horticultural Society, there are over 57,000 registered dahlias, even though only 42 species exist. Dahlias are easy and fun to breed since they produce mixed seeds and replica tubers.
These popular annuals take a long time to mature and need temperatures to reach around 65°F (18°C) before planting, so starting tubers indoors offers growers a significant head start on the season. Imagine how much further ahead you’d be if you had dahlia plants to transplant when the weather aligns, rather than planting the tubers! Customers will remember you for being the first to market with fresh blooms, which they’ll remember next season.
Let’s discuss how to successfully start dahlia tubers indoors.

Sprouting dahlia tubers indoors is a fun and effective way to enhance your skills, get a head start on the season, and head to market earlier with beautiful blooms.
*Heat mats and grow lights are optional because some growers have a heated greenhouse that provides access to natural sunlight. Heat mats help “wake up” stored tubers.
Watch this video on how to set up your automated grow rack after delivery.

Proper winter storage is crucial for keeping tubers healthy until springtime planting. A tuber stores water, carbohydrates, and nutrients for the next generation of plants, so its success is vital to a great dahlia season. Store them between 38°F and 55°F (3°C and 12°C) and at a relative humidity of around 80%, which helps prevent them from drying out.
Check on them throughout the storage months to ensure no mold or mildew forms. Then, look for the following characteristics to identify healthy tubers:
The sizes, shapes, lengths, and amount of wrinkles will depend on the variety. While you can briefly soak a very dry tuber to plump it back up, soaking is not generally advised.
For more information on storing and splitting your tubers in the spring or fall, read our article, "Easy Guide to Splitting Dahlia Tubers | Step-by-Step Tutorial."

If you’ve never sprouted dahlia tubers indoors, you’re probably used to watching the weather and checking soil temps for appropriate conditions to plant tubers straight into the garden soil. Planting dahlia tubers in cold, wet soil causes stress, which can inhibit their growth. Delayed growth means delayed blooms for you and your customers. Since some dahlia varieties take all summer to produce, you could be waiting for them to bloom as fall frosts are on the horizon.
This pre-sprouting method allows you to grow dahlia plants from tubers indoors, so you’ll have dahlia plants ready when the weather permits. The time commitment comes at the front end of the season, and the rewards are big.
Growers in most regions should plan to start their tubers in late March or early April, six to eight weeks before the last anticipated frost. This also allows time to make clones from cuttings as your tubers grow.
When getting started with cloning from cuttings, Bootstrap Farmer’s Propagation Kit has everything you need.
Related: When to Start Seeds Indoors on Your Homestead

Now that you know how to select healthy tubers and what materials you’ll need, let’s dive into how to plant and care for them once they’re potted up and growing.
Choose containers that fit the variety of sizes and shapes of your tubers, about 6 to 8 inches across and at the same depth. If you plan to grow your dahlias in pots all season on a patio, choose a material like terracotta or Grow Bags—7 Gallon Colored Fabric Pots that they can stay in. Choose clean, heavy-duty, and reusable plastic pots if you plan to transplant the dahlia plants into the ground when the weather allows.
Dahlias' success relies on the pot’s ability to drain properly, as tubers are susceptible to rot. Ensure the bottom of each pot has drainage holes, or the fabric is breathable and drainable. Drill additional holes if needed.
Choose soil that is loose, warm, and well-draining. Purchase an organic, high-quality, peat-free potting mix and combine it with well-aged manure. Or, select a soilless medium that’s a mix of bark, perlite, and vermiculite.
To prepare tubers, fill the containers about ⅓ full with moistened potting soil. Some growers add a biodegradable coffee filter at the bottom of the container to help contain soil and keep pests from entering.

If you’re used to planting tubers outdoors, you’ll recall planting them horizontally. You can also do this indoors, ensuring the eye is as close to the center as possible. It’s okay if it’s not exactly in the center, but ensure there is ¼-½ inch between the non-eye and the edge of the container to provide enough space for the roots to form.
Or, use 3.3" pots or 5" Heavy Duty Seed Starting Pots and place the tubers vertically with the neck and eye exposed. This method saves space and allows you to watch sprouting and growth more closely.
Bootstrap tip: Use 1020 Extra Strength Trays with holes to sprout multiple tubers, saving space, energy, and soil. As they grow, transplant them to larger containers as needed.

The pre-moistened potting soil will provide water to the tuber during the initial growth stages. Water sparingly to avoid rot, especially in small tubers, which are especially vulnerable. Most experts advise avoiding watering until new green growth has emerged.
The American Dahlia Society says their “secret” ingredient is copolymer, hydrogel beads that absorb up to 150 times their weight in moisture, helping keep tubers moist. When mixed with water, they create a slurry of gelatinous matter. Mix this slurry into the bottom ⅓ of your potting mix, then place your tuber in the pot and layer more soil on top. Doing so will help keep your tuber moist in the initial growing stages and prevent new growers from underwatering. While this is not required, it is common among dahlia experts and enthusiasts.
To avoid overwatering, a common mistake, plan to water about an inch per week once growth has begun. If you correctly moisten your potting soil, the tubers won’t need much during their initial growth stages.
To prevent disease and pest pressure, adjust the environment to offer relative humidity between 40 and 60% and provide good air circulation. Indoor daytime temperatures should remain between 68°F and 72°F (20°C and 22°C), while nighttime temperatures should range from 60°F to 64°F (15°C to 17°C).
Related: How to Use a Humidity Dome for Seed Starting

A comprehensive indoor grow setup is essential for proper growth.
Modern indoor grow lights are energy-efficient and highly effective, with LED options best suited for young plants and sprouting tubers. A sturdy rack with grow lights allows you to sprout many tubers at a time while not impeding too much on the rest of your early-season seed-starting tasks.
Add timers to lights to ensure your tubers receive 14 to 16 hours of sunlight daily, mimicking the six hours of natural daylight required. Position artificial lights about six inches above your containers or trays so new sprouts won’t have to bend their young stems to reach the light. Adjust the lights as the sprouts grow. If you rely on natural sunlight, rotate your plants regularly for equal transmission.
Related: Seed Starting 101

Signs of healthy growth include:
Quickly multiply your stock in 4 steps:
Common indoor diseases include bacterial pathogens that affect the tubers in storage. Other dahlia diseases include Phytophthora blight, root rot, powdery mildew, and crown gall. For more information on controlling fungus in the garden, read the article "Fungus Control for Dahlias and the Garden" from the American Dahlia Society.
Potential pests:
They aren't usually an issue until the plants grow outdoors. Scout for pests each time you water, feed, or reposition your pots. Light mulch, good drainage, sticky traps, and resistant varieties are among the ways to prevent common indoor growth challenges. Know your source when bringing dahlias and other plants onto your property.
Other indoor growing issues include insufficient warmth, overwatering, fluctuating temperatures or drafts, and selecting unviable tubers.

Hardening off is crucial to transitioning any plant from indoors to outdoors. It allows plants to slowly acclimate from the safe indoor environment to the ever-changing outdoor conditions that fluctuate by the hour.
Dahlias will not survive a frost, so keep your eye on the local forecast and ensure the risk of frost has passed before starting this process. One week to ten days before you plan to plant your dahlias outdoors, begin the hardening-off process for a few hours at a time, gradually increasing the time each time. Start by placing them outdoors on a cloudy or partly cloudy day in a well-protected area. If they become stressed, move them back indoors and try the next day again. Eventually, they should spend an entire 24-hour cycle outdoors. Protect at night if necessary.
Dahlias thrive when temperatures are between 70°F and 80°F (21°C to 26°C) and when there are few fluctuations, similar to tomatoes. A well-draining area with full, south-facing sun is perfect for planting dahlias. Most regions can plant them out in mid to late May or June. Plant them about a foot deep or according to the variety’s recommendations. Space them 15 to 18 inches from center to center for best results. Dahlias will produce blooms in year one under the right circumstances.

Store dahlias between 38°F and 55°F (3°C and 12°C), never frozen. A pest-free attic, basement, uninsulated root cellar, or closet works well. Humidity levels of 80% will keep them from drying out. Run a dehumidifier to prevent mold and decrease moisture if necessary. Wick away excess moisture while keeping the environment moist by layering vermiculite, peat, newspaper, or wood shavings.
If you squeeze the tubers and there doesn’t seem to be any live flesh inside, or the exterior flesh is wrinkled and desiccated, they’re too dry. If you catch it early enough, they can bounce back. Bring a water mister bottle each time you check in on stored tubers. If any seem to be dry, give them a little spritz. Run a humidifier in the storage area to maintain humidity levels.
If your garden soil contains clay, purchase bagged potting soil. When you water clayey soil, it turns into mud, which inhibits proper dahlia growth. You can also mix in coco coir to loosen clay soil and improve drainage.
If you’ve confirmed all these factors are conducive to growth, the tubers may not be viable. If they are firm, consider bringing them to a warmer location and trying again in fresh soil.
Dahlias will thrive when fed a bloom-boosting fertilizer high in potassium and phosphorus. Avoid all-balanced fertilizers; look for an NPK of 5-10-10 or 10-20-20 instead. The key is low nitrogen. The tuber contains enough energy and nutrients to sprout, so anything supplemental should focus on blooms. Feed every few weeks once they’re in active growth, following the instructions and amounts on the packaging.
For best results, each tuber should have its own container based on size. However, you can sprout them closer together in 1020 Extra Strength Trays before transplanting them into something larger or the ground.
Written by Jenna Rich of Partners’ Gardens LLC.
Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more …