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September 29, 2025 9 min read 0 Comments
Garlic is one of those crops that hooks gardeners for life. Once home growers try it, they rarely go back to store-bought. And it’s easy to see why:
Garlic comes in a wide range of flavor profiles.
Its storability is superb!
It’s low-maintenance. You plant bulbs in the fall (usually), and harvest delicious heads in late summer.
Growing garlic is straightforward, but like most things, it takes some time to learn the ropes.
In this article, we’ll look into common questions like: When should I plant? How do I know when the garlic is ready? What type should I plant in my backyard garden? Plus tips to foster success.
Before you start planting, it helps to understand a few fundamentals about how garlic grows and why timing matters. These basics will guide your decisions on when and what type of garlic to plant.
Why Garlic Is Planted in Fall (Mostly)
Hardneck garlic needs vernalization to grow. Vernalization is exposure to temperatures below 40°F (4°C) for four to eight weeks. This tells the plant when to sprout, ensuring the production of healthy bulbs and resilient plants. Softneck garlic can be planted in spring but winter dormancy allows for bigger heads.
Vernalization is easy to achieve in northern climates, where winters are cold. But what about southern regions that don’t experience freezing temperatures? In these regions, mimic winter by chilling cloves in a refrigerator for weeks. Plant when the soil can be worked, about six to eight weeks before the last anticipated frost.
Consider characteristics like flavor, planting time, cold tolerance, and storage when choosing the right garlic type for you. Use the chart below to guide you.
Characteristics |
Hardneck garlic |
Softneck garlic |
General characteristics |
|
|
Flavor |
Intense, bold garlic flavor, complex, spicy |
More mild, buttery |
Storage life |
3-6 months |
9-12 months |
Cold-tolerance |
Requires cold vernalization |
Prefers zones 6+, but can tolerate frost with proper mulching and protection |
Planting time |
Early fall, just before the first hard frost |
Zone dependent, fall or spring |
Ideal planting zones *Zones 5-9 can plant both |
1 through 7, fall planting |
6 through 12, spring planting |
Bonus feature |
Garlic scapes |
Use braided stems in crafts |
Popular varieties |
‘Chesnok Red,’ ‘German Extra Hardy,’ ‘Porcelain,’ 'Red Russian,’ ‘Music’ |
‘Inchelium Red,’ artichoke and silverskin types |
Check the USDA plant hardiness zone map to determine your growing zone. Read our article, The USDA's New Plant Hardiness Zone Map - Explained, to learn more.
Garlic has a few basic requirements for optimal performance:
High organic matter. Add several inches of compost soil before planting. Why Organic Matter Is Key to Sustainable Soil Management
Well-draining area in full sun.
Slightly acidic to neutral soil (between 6.0 and 7.0). Use a simple at-home kit to test your soil levels before making any changes. Learn why it matters in How to Test Soil pH Before Planting — and Why You Should.
Add a balanced fertilizer in the fall and spring. Enhance root production in the fall by adding extra phosphorus and potassium. Add a boost of nitrogen in the spring to encourage stem and leaf production.
Bootstrap tip: Use garden markers and plant labels to organize multiple varieties.
Here’s how to set your garlic up for success, from timing to planting depth.
Plant garlic 4-6 weeks before the first hard frost. This timing ensures that roots develop before winter, but limits the risk of premature sprouting. The exact timing will depend on the year’s forecast. Hold off if fall is particularly warm. Watch the weekly forecast to make a plan.
Garlic planting windows by zone:
Zones 1-4: Mid to late September
Zones 5-7: Early October to early November
Zones 8-9: Mid-October to mid-November
Zones 10+: December or January
Choose the largest and healthiest bulbs
Break apart bulbs into separate cloves
Leave the skins intact
Avoid soft cloves, and discard any with black, green, or soft spots
Do not use any that have a foul odor, indicating disease or rot
Mark your bed or plot with a gridding tool, trench, or using a tape measure.
Place bulbs pointed side up, two to four inches deep. Use a trowel if necessary.
Tip: Colder climate growers- plant deeper for added insulation.
Space cloves 5-6 inches apart with 6-12 inches between rows.
Cover the bulbs or close the trench with soil and gently tamp them down.
Water the cloves in and continue to water them if no rainfall occurs until the first frost.
If a sudden fall frost occurs before you lay out mulch, use frost blankets to protect the plot.
Top the plot with several inches of organic straw to protect it from frost and help maintain consistent temperatures. Reduce annual weeds with light straw in the pathways.
Frost heaving can occur after multiple frosts and when the soil temperature fluctuates. Cloves can emerge from the soil when this occurs. Use row cover to prevent frost heaving.
In spring, remove the mulch so sunlight can reach the soil.
Test your soil before fertilizing. Sprinkle a well-balanced feed or one higher in phosphorus and potassium in the fall. Apply nitrogen in the spring to ensure your crop gets off to a strong start when the weather warms up. Boron is necessary for bulbs to form heads. If your soil is low in micro nutrients amend with azomite as well.
To prevent cloves from rotting, select a well-draining area that receives full sun. Track moisture levels with a meter.
Hardneck garlic varieties produce scapes from the center of their leaves in early summer. To send the energy back into bulb production, snap these off when they begin to curl.
Missed scapes will point directly up toward the sky. Grab them as soon as possible to prevent tiny bulbs. The flavor of scapes is sweeter and milder. Use them in pesto, stir-fries, and soups.
Garlic is ready to harvest when 5-6 leaves have turned yellow and died back. Beginners sometimes mistake this as a disease or stress signal. You’ll recognize the signs as you learn the timing of garlic maturity.
If you harvest too early:
Bulbs may be small
Underdeveloped outer skins, leading to shorter storage life
Less flavorful
If you harvest too late:
May have split bulbs, leading to shorter storage life
Outer skins may become brittle, affecting storage
May become bitter
Allow the soil to dry out before harvest day. Then follow these easy harvest steps:
Use a digging fork to loosen the soil around the bulbs.
Hold at the base and wiggle around the bulb.
Gently pull up on the base of the leaves, and pull the bulb out.
Let them lie in the sun for a few hours to dry off.
Tip: Handle your garlic like eggs to avoid bruising. For everything you need, view our tool collection here.
Once your garlic is harvested, the next step is curing. This process draws out excess moisture, strengthens the outer skins, and sets your bulbs up for months of storage.
Properly curing garlic enhances flavor and ensures a long storage life. It also prevents mold and rot by removing moisture, and tightens the outer skin so the garlic peels more easily.
Follow these 5 steps in your curing process:
Remove excess soil and trim off the tops of the leaves to provide better airflow. Leave most of the leaves, though, as they help draw moisture out of the bulbs.
Tie garlic in bunches of 8-10.
Hang in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight or lay flat on a drying rack. For a small amount, use Bootstrap Farmer’s mesh deep 1020s. Add a fan to the area for extra circulation.
Allow bunches to dry for several weeks, until the outer skins are papery and the roots are slightly shriveled.
Trim the roots and stems to approximately 1 inch in length using sharp pruners. Store garlic in a pantry, basement, or dark area in your kitchen.
A dark and cool area will help garlic maintain its freshness. Use mesh bags or wire baskets to boost air circulation. Keep bags open and line boxes with newspaper to help draw out any excess moisture. Keep them away from areas with high humidity.
Use vertical space if you don’t have a large pantry. Use mesh bags or baskets in areas typically unutilized to store root veggies all winter. Pop in a label with the variety and date to keep your stash organized.
Once you’ve mastered the basics, there are ways to fine-tune your garlic growing for bigger bulbs, stronger flavor, and more consistent results. Commercial growers often rely on small adjustments that make a big difference.
Planting depth and spacing affect bulb size and flavor. Experiment with various techniques and note the differences for future seasons. Draw maps and take photos to stay organized.
Remember these growing tips:
Garlic requires lots of nitrogen to produce large, healthy bulbs.
Deeper sowing will protect cloves against hard frosts.
Always plant cloves with the pointed end up and root end down. Planting upside down can stunt growth and reduce bulb size..
Timing matters, so check the weather to get it right.
Adjust timing and fertilization as needed based on results.
Bootstrap tip: Plant a round of cover crops in your garlic field before planting fall crops to boost fertility and increase biomass. Learn more in the Top 5 Benefits of Using Cover Crops.
Garlic and other alliums make great garden companions. Their strong scents can help deter critters and pests. Read more and learn about this technique in Boost Harvests with Companion Planting.
Invest in professional-grade tools to enhance your gardening experience. High-quality tools will save your hands, back, and wallet since you won’t need to replace them as often.
We recommend:
Broadfork, trowel, and claw to prep your beds.
Row covers for cold protection and to prevent frost heaving
Garden markers and plant labels to stay organized and properly identify varieties
Hand tools and harvest knives for precise harvesting and trimming
Our seed-starting supplies will help you level up your greenhouse. We offer greenhouse kits to help you extend your season, too.
Zones 1-4: Mid to late September
Zones 5-7: Early October to early November
Zones 8-9: Mid-October to mid-November
Zones 10+: December or January
Hardneck garlic: bold flavor, fewer large cloves, best for cold climates, produces scapes, shorter storage life
Softneck garlic: less intense flavor, smaller cloves, thrives in warm climates, longer storage life
Once 5-6 leaves have browned and died back, the bulbs are ready for harvest.
Hang garlic in a well-ventilated, dark area for several weeks to allow for proper curing.
Possible issues:
Insufficient watering. Water the plot an inch weekly if no rainfall has occurred. Watering is not required in winter months in areas where rain and snowfall are common.
Lack of sunlight. Ensure six to eight hours daily.
Poor fertility. Test your soil annually and amend appropriately. Add compost each year to support the soil microorganisms. Practice crop rotation.
Inappropriate type chosen for your area.
Bulbs were harvested too early.
Stress from pests, disease, or drought conditions.
Scapes were not snapped (in hardneck varieties).
Yes, removing scapes tells the plant to redirect energy into bulb and clove production, leading to larger harvests. Scapes are also a seasonal bonus crop with a mild, sweet garlic flavor you can grill, make into pesto, or add to dressings. The best time to remove them is in early summer once they’ve formed their first curl; at this stage they’re tender for cooking, and the plant hasn’t yet wasted energy on flowering. If left too long, scapes will straighten upward, signaling the plant to focus on seed production instead of bulb size.
Cured hardneck garlic should last 3-6 months in a dry, cool space. Softneck garlic can last 9-12 months with proper storage.
We encourage you to purchase seed garlic from your local organic farmer. They can provide you with regional growing tips and the freshest product.
Prep your beds with ease using these tools:
Maintain garlic plots with:
Various hoe styles
Row cover
Harvest/store garlic using:
Storage racks or 1020 trays
Fans
Mesh bags, mesh trays, or baskets and labels
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